Embroidery or decorative
needlework is usually done on fabrics like the salwar kameez and the saree,
often of a picture or pattern, to heighten the appeal. It is practised in
various forms in different parts of India.
Handcrafted embroidery is
exclusive and a treasured art since it is painstaking, time consuming, and a
lot of care and dedication is put in by ethnic practitioners into the work,
resulting in flawless creations of exquisite beauty. Zardozi is
metal embroidery done on various fabrics like sarees using gold or silver
colour coated copper wire along with a silk thread. Popular since Mughal times
, zari thread today, employed for zardozi is Imitation zari using gold or
silver coated copper wire or mostly zari made from metallic polyester film
where a polyester core is covered by gold or silver coloured metallic yarn.
Chikankari is intricate embroidery on sarees and salwar kameez.
An art form where, the design or pattern print is transferred to the cloth, the
embroidery done on it and the print washed away later leaving only the
embroidery behind. Once done only with white thread on plain white fabrics,
today it uses coloured threads too.
Lucknavi chikankari is the most unique and
famous of chikan work in India. Kantha Work, is embroidery work done on sarees, with a
running stitch on them in the form of motifs. These motifs could be animals,
birds, flowers, simple geometrical shapes and scenes from everyday life. It
gives the saree a wrinkled and wavy look and transforms a plain saree into an
extraordinary creation.
Other forms of stitch such
as darning stitch, satin stitch and loop stitch are also used. Based on the use
of the fabric, Kantha is divided into seven different types with Lep kantha and
Sujani kantha being the popular types.
Bagh is special embroidery practised by
women in rural Punjab. Heavy, exquisite embroidery on sarees especially the
lehenga type, where the base fabric is hardly visible, it is mostly done for
special sarees for occasions like festivals and weddings. Phulkari or the
floral embroidered motifs evenly distributed over the fabric is the lighter
version of Bagh.
Kasuti is a traditional form of embroidery in Karnataka,
India. Kasuti work is very intricate and involves putting a large number of
stitches by hand on traditional silk sarees like Ilkal, Kanjeevaram, Mysore Silk and the Dharwad cottons.
Kasuti work embroidery has intricate patterns like chariot,
lamps and conch shells on the fabrics. Kashida is embroidery done in the
Kashmir valley and draws its subjects from nature and its offerings like
leaves, floral arrangements, fruits, nuts etc. to be displayed as motifs on the
rich Pashmina sarees, salwar kameez, shawls and other
apparel. Kutchi embroidery is microscopic, exquisite, painstaking and awesome.
The sensational designs and patterns that form from calculated stitches done
purely from memory, defies description. The outcomes are breath-taking. There
are others also like Parsi embroidery known for the intricate thread working,
with unique patterns and exceptional detailing. There are very many more
handicrafts of skill and accuracy spread across the country.
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