The
Banarasi saree is from Benares or Varanasi. Known for its gold and silver
brocade or zari work, it is generally accompanied by rich embroidery, intricate
designs and engravings. Designs from the Mughal period are mainly the base for
these engravings, such as floral intertwining, motifs of leaves on the borders
and the body. Kimkhab, potthan, betta and amru are
some of the famous brocades woven on banarasi saris.
Other
distinctive features are heavy gold work, intricate weaving, detailing work,
metallic effects which contribute to the richness and grandeur of the saree. In
the proccess, they also make the fabric slightly heavy.
The
finery and trappings of the Banarasi Saree are reason enough for it to figure
in any Indian wedding. As Bridal attire, it provides an extremely rich look and
feel for the occasion. Based on design the Banarasi sari has been
classified as Pure Silk, Organza, Georgette and Shattir. Again based on cut
methods they are classified differently.
Beautiful
combinations for Banarasi Sarees have evolved and are suitable for different
ocasions.
Designer
banarasi pure silk sarees richly woven with intricate beautiful zari brocades,
jamdhani work, floral and foliage motifs are much loved by bollywood
celebrities and are a ‘hit’ for Indian weddings.
An
Indian designer pure Banarasi brocade saree having ‘jal’ (net) at the borders, rich
embroidery on the net and with an elegant pallu is very charming, and most apt
for weddings, functions and suited as bridal attire.
The
Banarasi supernet sari embellished with zari embroidery and stones, gives the
wearer a sensuous look. It is appropriate to wear on occasions like marriage
anniversary or special invites.
Other trendy eye-catchers have innovative blends of tussar silk
and jute fabrics. Brilliant colour combinations and contrast borders with
designer pallus have been experimented with viscose art silk, with jamdhani
style woven buttis and banarasi patchwork for enhanced appeal.
The
weaving could take anywhere up to a month or even several, based on the designs
and trappings chosen for the Banarasi Saree. Methods are being adopted to
extract natural colours from plants, flowers and fruits to address
environmental concerns, but still much needs to be done.
An
estimated population of over 10 lakhs is associated with the Banarasi Silk
Saree industry from Banaras and its surrounding areas such as Gorakhpur,
Bhadohi, Jaunpur.
Over
a period of time, the industry has suffered on account of mechanized loom
productions claiming the label of Banarasi Sari, on account of their being
located in Banaras and nearby areas. The Geographical Indication (GI) rights
for Banaras brocades and sarees awarded in 2009 to six districts of Varanasi,
Mirzapur, Chandauli, Bhadohi, Jaunpur and Azamgarh districts, gave legal rights
to the traditional weavers of these areas and a trade boost to this traditionalweave to see better days.
The Banarasi Saree with its wide-ranging and far-reaching
combinations, in a fusion of traditional and trending seamlessly ‘woven’
together, continues to remain the much sought after fabric that it always has
been.
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